I’ve read the posting DIY Rapa Skin Cream (thanks for the post!) and just want to extend the recipe a little because we dont like commercial cremes and of couse we want to feel us like scientists, not mad ones
The problem with commercial cremes is the bad formulation (its mostly made of cheap oils or mineral oil etc) and you won’t get a cream that perfectly fits your skin needs.
The following recipe is suited best for normal to sensitive or slightly dry skin. Because we have used DMSO we included a lot of saturated fatty acids to counteract the fluidisation effect.
Very dry skin should add some more moisterizing agents (subtract from amount of water in phase A).
For oily skin better reduce Shea butter and Rice Bran oil but add some Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and/or Jojoba Seed Oil.
2 % Bergamuls (Beta-Glucan and Pectin) or other cold process emulsifying agent of choice
3 % Glycerin
1 % Geogard (or other preservative of choice)
72,5 % Water
Mix ingredients of Phase B and let soak for several minutes.
5 % DMSO (or if you like transcutol)
1 pc. Rapamune 1mg per 100g final product (3mg also okay but propably not more)
Make Rapamune powder with mortar and add DMSO
Add phase A and B.
4 % Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
2 % Shea Butter
3 % Jojoba Seed Oil
Melt Phase C at medium heat.
3 % Safflower Oil
3 % Rice Bran Oil
1,5 % Sucrose Stearate
Mix Phase C and D.
Incorporate Phase AB and CD with a high speed blender for 2 - 4 minutes. Check ph-value and add e.g. lactic acid if necessary to adjust for 5,5.
Repeat Mixing after 30 and 60 minutes; mix again after 24 hours.
Final product is a white, thin emulsion with sprayable viscosity. Add gelling agent of choice to phase A for a thicker cream.
Parfume of choice is recommended (add to final product) to counteract the garlic-like DMSO smell.
Adjust temperatures and procedure in case of using other emulsifying agents than Bergamuls and Sucrose Stearate.