This is a few months old, but its a very compelling study:
Researchers testing a pterostilbene-based anti-aging cream found it greatly improved skin firmness, elasticity, and wrinkle reduction compared to a control.
The results were not bad, but not huge (an improvement around 13% is probably not visible to most people, as shown in the wrinkle measures). Perhaps best to add this with other compounds that have equal or larger benefits, like niacinamide, etc.?
A new 2025 clinical trial reports that a 0.1% Pterostilbene-containing topical emulsion, applied twice daily in a split-face design over 28 days, significantly improved multiple skin-aging measures (wrinkle volume, elasticity, collagen and epidermal thickness) compared to a control emulsion.
1. Summary of the study
This is a 28-day, double-blind, split-face clinical trial in 31 Chinese adults (age 32–53) with visible facial aging (sagging, reduced elasticity, wrinkles). The test product was an oil-in-water emulsion base with 0.1% pterostilbene (from Pterocarpus marsupium bark extract); the control was the identical base without pterostilbene. Each subject applied pterostilbene to one half of the face and the base to the other half twice daily for 28 days.
Objective endpoints:
Skin elasticity (R2) and firmness (F4) by Cutometer
Wrinkle area/volume on forehead and under-eye region by PRIMOS 3D imaging
Crow’s feet wrinkles, pore area, and facial features by VISIA-CR
Epidermal thickness, collagen intensity, elastin autofluorescence, aging indices (ELCOR, SAAID) and DEJ (epidermal-dermal junction) area by in vivo two-photon microscopy (SUPERVISION-780)
Key findings for the pterostilbene side vs baseline at 28 days:
The control base produced only modest, mostly small improvements (e.g., R2 +2.2%, forehead wrinkle area –3.3%), interpreted as limited placebo/vehicle effect. Pores on the control side enlarged over time (likely seasonal heat), whereas pore area on the pterostilbene side was relatively stabilized and significantly smaller vs control at both 14 and 28 days.
Pterostilbene is a methylated analog of resveratrol; like resveratrol, it may modulate nutrient-sensing/signaling pathways (e.g. SIRT1, AMPK) that intersect with autophagy and mitochondrial biogenesis. Although this trial does not explore molecular markers, the observed increase in collagen and elastic fiber fluorescence could reflect enhanced extracellular matrix (ECM) maintenance, perhaps via reduced oxidative damage or improved matrix turnover. By analogy to other polyphenols that activate autophagy and support proteostasis, pterostilbene might promote dermal maintenance through enhanced autophagic clearance of damaged matrix components and support for fibroblast function. That said, none of the classic longevity axes — systemic mTOR/AMPK, mitochondrial function across organs, vascular health, or immunologic pathways (e.g. cGAS-STING) — were assessed.
What Is Actually Novel
First clinical human trial demonstrating that topical pterostilbene, at a relatively low concentration (0.1%), can measurably modify dermal structural aging markers (not just subjective “wrinkle reduction”).
Use of multiparametric objective imaging (Cutometer elasticity metrics, two-photon microscopy for collagen/elastic fibers, DEJ structural imaging), rather than only photographic or subjective endpoints common in cosmetic trials.
For Longevity-Minded Biohackers: Actionable Insights & Hypotheses
N=1 experiment possibility: trial topical pterostilbene on a defined skin region (e.g. forearm), track skin elasticity (monthly Cutometer or 3D imaging if available), skin thickness, pore size; monitor potential irritation or photosensitivity.
Biomarkers to track: skin autofluorescence (advanced glycation end-products), non-invasive ultrasound of dermal thickness, trans-epidermal water loss (for barrier integrity), inflammatory cytokines in skin biopsy (if feasible).
Stacking hypotheses: combining topical pterostilbene with systemic autophagy-promoting interventions (e.g. intermittent fasting, AMPK activators, exercise) could possibly synergize dermal ECM maintenance and overall proteostasis.
Dose/timing idea: given 0.1% efficacy over 28 days, one might trial alternate-day application for 2–3 months to assess durability, or pulse treatment to test rebound effects.
Cost-wise, pterostilbene cream is likely inexpensive relative to systemic longevity drugs (e.g. rapalogs), with low marginal cost per application; from a “cosmetic ROI” perspective, the structural improvements over weeks may justify use — but from a systemic longevity standpoint, benefit per dollar is probably minimal or nil without systemic absorption and multi-organ impact.
Conclusion: Overall, this paper is good evidence that 0.1% topical pterostilbene is a cosmetically active, tolerable ingredient with modest but measurable short-term anti-aging effects on facial skin structure and appearance. It does not yet establish pterostilbene as superior to current gold-standard actives, nor does it link these changes to systemic or deep “longevity” outcomes; it remains, appropriately, a cosmetic anti-aging study.
3.2 Outcomes and effect sizes
Relative vs absolute changes A +32% change in R2 sounds large, but the absolute change is 0.46 → 0.61, and there is no anchoring to clinical thresholds (e.g., what constitutes a noticeable difference to an independent dermatologist). The same applies to −13–15% changes in wrinkle area/volume: statistically significant, but clinically modest.
Imaging metrics are surrogate markers Two-photon collagen/elastin signal and DEJ area are proxies, not direct histology. Changes may reflect hydration and optical properties, not necessarily de novo collagen synthesis or durable matrix remodeling. No biopsy or biomarker (e.g., MMP-1/3 in vivo) is provided to mechanistically connect these structural changes to long-term anti-aging effects.
Pore results confounded by seasonality The authors themselves attribute pore enlargement on the control side partly to hotter weather; the pterostilbene side shows stabilization. That still suggests benefit, but environmental confounding remains substantial, and no control for sebum output, sweat, or daily UV exposure is included.
Self-assessment is inevitably biased Participants rated both products after using them on their own faces; placebo effects and expectations are high in cosmetic trials, even if side identity is blinded. No separate, blinded evaluator or objective grading scale is reported.
3.3 Conflicts of interest and external validity
Heavy commercial involvement The formulation company (Guangzhou Luanying Cosmetics) both funded the study and employed several of the authors; another author is with Vitargent, a testing/biotech company. This is openly disclosed, but it increases the risk of design, analysis, and reporting bias (e.g., choice of endpoints, selective emphasis on favorable metrics).
No safety deep-dive The paper states that no irritation or adverse skin reactions were observed and suggests pterostilbene is safer/more stable than resveratrol, but there is no patch test, no cumulative irritation testing, no phototoxicity assessment, and no extended follow-up. For a new cosmetic active being presented as superior to resveratrol, the safety dataset is thin.
Limited mechanistic integration The discussion refers to prior in vitro work showing pterostilbene reduces UV-induced MMP-1/3, increases collagen I, and modulates Nrf2/ARE antioxidant pathways and autophagy. However, those mechanisms are not directly probed in this clinical trial—there are no in vivo biomarkers, gene expression data, or proteomics to back mechanistic claims for humans.
At ~$0.21/g, you can produce a 0.1% pterostilbene cream for roughly 2 cents of active ingredient per 100 g — extremely cost-effective for DIY formulations.
• Mega Resveratrol (Amazon)
Most convenient “consumer pack,” ideal for first-time experimenters.
At $0.54/g, still inexpensive — a 0.1% 100 g cream uses only $0.054 worth of compound.
• Bulk Naturals Wholesale
Great for very small tests (5–10 g), but cost/g is high.
Small batches allow easy pilot experiments, but not cost-effective long-term.
• Vita Actives
Higher traceability than typical consumer supplement vendors, often worth the premium if purity consistency matters to you.
• BioSynth
Research-grade chemical supplier; highest QC, highest documentation, highest price.
Useful when reproducibility, batch documentation, and purity verification matter more than cost.
Caveats & What to Check Before Purchasing
1. Always request a full Certificate of Analysis (CoA)
Confirm:
HPLC purity
Cis/trans isomer ratio
Heavy metals (Pb, Cd, Hg, As)
Microbial limits
Residual solvents
Most vendors vary batch-to-batch.
2. Intended-use labeling varies
Products may be marketed as:
Nutraceutical raw material
Cosmetic ingredient
Research chemical (RUO)
This affects:
Legal use
Safety documentation
Expected purity
Allowed routes of administration
3. Bulk vs small-size tradeoff
5 g batches may cost $3–4/g
1 kg batches may cost $0.05–0.10/g (overseas suppliers)For DIY skin experiments, 25–100 g is usually the sweet spot.
4. Storage & Stability
Pterostilbene is:
More stable than resveratrol
Still degraded by UV, oxygen, heat
Best practice:
Store airtight
Use opaque/dark packaging
Refrigerate for multi-month storage
If You Want…
Follow up Prompt:
Explain some ways a person would create their own DIY pterostilbene cream that would function similarly. What are considerations in making this cream, shelf life, etc.?
It is reasonable to try to make a mixture of pterostilbene with some reagent and then mix with a pre-existing skin cream like Cetaphil?
CGPT Response:
Yes — it is chemically and practically reasonable to mix pterostilbene with a suitable solubilizing reagent and then blend that concentrate into an existing commercial cream such as Cetaphil Daily Moisturizer or Cetaphil Cream. This is one of the simplest DIY routes, and many home formulators do exactly this with lipophilic actives.
However, you must handle three technical constraints to avoid a gritty, unstable, or ineffective mixture:
pterostilbene’s low water solubility,
the need for a compatible solvent,
maintaining preservative integrity and emulsion stability of the base cream.
Below is a concise, practical, formulation-science explanation.
1. Yes, It Is Reasonable — If You Use a Solvent First
Pterostilbene is strongly lipophilic (logP ~3–4) and essentially insoluble in water. Cetaphil is an oil-in-water emulsion with limited free oil phase.
Therefore:
You cannot simply dump pterostilbene powder into Cetaphil.
It will float, clump, or remain undissolved → minimal bioavailability.
You must first pre-dissolve it in a compatible solvent such as:
Would transcutol work as a solven in preparing a DIY mixture for use with cetaphil?
Response:
Yes — Transcutol® (diethylene glycol monoethyl ether) is an excellent solvent and penetration enhancer for preparing a DIY pterostilbene mixture that can then be blended into a base cream such as Cetaphil. In fact, from a formulation-science standpoint, Transcutol is one of the best possible choices for solubilizing lipophilic actives like pterostilbene while maintaining emulsion stability.
Below is a precise, technical explanation.
1. Why Transcutol Works Well
A. Strong solvent capacity for lipophilic actives
Transcutol has a high solubilization index for polyphenolics and lipophilic compounds such as:
pterostilbene
resveratrol
curcumin
quercetin
many esterified lipids
It can dissolve pterostilbene more effectively than:
glycerin
propanediol
most oils
water/alcohol mixtures
B. Compatible with oil-in-water emulsions (Cetaphil included)
Transcutol is widely used in topical pharmaceuticals and cosmetics because:
It rarely destabilizes emulsions at ≤10% of the total formulation.
It integrates into both aqueous and oil microdomains.
It does not interfere with parabens or phenoxyethanol (common Cetaphil preservatives).
C. Potent penetration enhancer
It increases:
stratum corneum lipid fluidity
transepidermal penetration of actives
dermal deposition
This helps pterostilbene actually reach the viable epidermis/dermis, increasing the chance that its antioxidant/ECM effects occur.
In short: Transcutol both dissolves the active and helps drive it into the skin.
2. How to Use Transcutol for a DIY PTB–Cetaphil Preparation
Step 1 — Dissolve pterostilbene
Use approx:
1–2 mL Transcutol per 100 mg pterostilbene
Gently warm to 40–50°C until fully dissolved.(It should form a clear solution; cloudiness means insufficient solvent.)
Step 2 — Incorporate into Cetaphil
Add your PTB/Transcutol solution into:
100 g Cetaphil cream for a 0.1% final concentration.Mix thoroughly using a mini-whisk, spatula, or handheld homogenizer.
Safe addition range
Transcutol can be added up to 5–10% of total formula volume without destabilizing Cetaphil.
For a typical 100 g batch:
Keep Transcutol ≤5 g (5 mL) to be safe.
3. Stability and Shelf-Life Considerations
Transcutol improves stability
Pterostilbene is more stable in Transcutol than in water-based systems.
But still avoid:
Heat
UV light
Open-air containers
Recommended shelf life:
2–3 months room temp
4–6+ months refrigerated (ideal)
Airless, opaque pump packaging is best.
4. Potential Downsides or Sensitivity Issues
Transient stinging occurs in ~3–10% of users when using >5–10% Transcutol.
Not recommended on compromised barrier skin (eczema, open wounds).
Can increase penetration of other ingredients in Cetaphil (generally safe, but worth noting).
In a typical 0.1% PTB preparation, you will be using 1–3% Transcutol, which is well within the comfortable and safe range.
5. Bottom Line
Yes — Transcutol is one of the most effective and formulation-sound solvents to use for a pterostilbene-in-Cetaphil preparation.
It provides:
Strong solubility for PTB
High dermal penetration
Good emulsion compatibility
Good stability
If you’d like, I can give you:
an exact recipe for 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.2%, or 0.5% pterostilbene creams using Transcutol
a microneedling-safe PTB serum using Transcutol + hyaluronic acid
a maximal-penetration formula using Transcutol + DMI + squalane
Would it be feasible and reasonable to use Pterostilbene and a few other well-validated compounds for skin health and aging (like Vitamin C, Niacinimide, hyaluronic acid, etc.) to a DIY formulation with transcutol and then added to a premixed cetaphil cream as a way to create a cost-effective and effective skin cream for personal use?
CGPT Response:
Yes — it is feasible, chemically reasonable, and often highly cost-effective to combine pterostilbene + other well-validated dermatologic actives (vitamin C, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, etc.) into a DIY transcutol-based concentrate and then incorporate that into a pre-made cream like Cetaphil.
However — the formulation details matter a lot, because each ingredient has different solubility, pH, and stability constraints. If you respect those constraints, you can absolutely make a high-quality “actives-enriched” cream comparable to many commercial anti-aging formulations, at a tiny fraction of the cost.
Below is a practical, formulation-science evaluation.
1. Short Answer
Yes, feasible and reasonable — but you must match each ingredient to its proper solvent and pH environment.
Pterostilbene dissolves best in Transcutol, DMI, squalane, or MCT oil, and is fully compatible with Cetaphil’s oil-in-water emulsion.
Niacinamide is water-soluble and compatible.
Hyaluronic acid is water-soluble and compatible.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is the only tricky one.
A transcutol-based “master concentrate” is a very good approach for lipophilic actives (pterostilbene, retinol, squalane-soluble antioxidants), but not for water-soluble ones unless you separate phases.
2. Ingredient-by-Ingredient Feasibility
A. Pterostilbene — YES
Lipophilic → dissolves well in Transcutol.
Compatible with Cetaphil’s oil-in-water emulsion.
Stable vs light/heat compared to resveratrol.
No problematic pH constraints.→ Very easy to include.
B. Niacinamide — YES
Water-soluble → does NOT dissolve in Transcutol.
But Cetaphil has a substantial water phase → you can mix Niacinamide directly into the cream or dissolve in a teaspoon of distilled water then blend in.
Stable at pH 5–7 (Cetaphil is ~pH 6.5).→ Good fit. Very stable. Well tolerated.
C. Hyaluronic Acid — YES (with a caveat)
Must be pre-hydrated in water before mixing.
Works at the pH of Cetaphil.→ Add as a hydrated gel, not as dry powder (too difficult to disperse uniformly).1% HA gel added at 5–10% of total volume works well.
D. Vitamin C — SOMETIMES (depends on form)
Classic L-ascorbic acid:
Requires pH < 3.5 to be stable and effective → totally incompatible with Cetaphil (which is pH 6–7).
Darkens, oxidizes, destabilizes emulsions → Not recommended in Cetaphil-based DIY.
However, vitamin C derivatives are compatible:
Preferred forms:
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP)
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP)
Ascorbyl glucoside
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD) — oil-soluble, dissolves effortlessly in Transcutol or squalane.
For a Cetaphil-based DIY formulation:
→ THD (oil-soluble) and MAP/SAP (water-soluble) are best.
3. Best Combined Strategy (Practical Formulation)
Step 1 — Lipophilic Actives Dissolved in Transcutol
Make a mini-concentrate:
Pterostilbene
THD ascorbate (optional)
Coenzyme Q10, resveratrol analogs, etc. (optional)
A few mL of Transcutol (plus optional squalane to improve skin feel)
This creates a clear, stable oil-phase additive .
Step 2 — Hydrophilic Actives Pre-Dissolved in Water
Niacinamide
Sodium/Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Hydrated hyaluronic acid gel
PanthenolMix with a few mL of distilled water . Keep pH 5.5–6.5.
Step 3 — Add Both into Cetaphil
Add oil-phase concentrate first. Mix until uniform.
Add water-phase actives next. Mix thoroughly.
Avoid exceeding ~15% total additive volume to preserve emulsion stability.
Cetaphil is a robust emulsion and tolerates additives very well when total added volume is modest.
4. Why This DIY Method Is Cost-Effective
Commercial anti-aging creams often cost $50–$150
because they include:
A polyphenol
A vitamin C derivative
Niacinamide
HA
Penetration enhancers
You can replicate these ingredients at 5–10% of the price:
Ingredient
Typical Cost per 100 g DIY cream
Pterostilbene (0.1%)
$0.02–$0.05
Niacinamide (2–5%)
$0.03–$0.10
HA gel
$0.05–$0.15
Vitamin C derivative
$0.15–$0.60
Transcutol (few mL)
$0.05–$0.10
Cetaphil base
$1–$2
Total cost: ~$1.50–$3.00 per 100 g, comparable in quality to $80–$150 branded creams.
Supports collagen synthesis (vitamin C derivatives)
Maintains barrier function (niacinamide)
Supports hydration and ECM viscosity (HA)
Minimizes chemical risk (stable pH, stable actives)
Provides excellent penetration (Transcutol)
Very stable (no low-pH instability)
6. What You Must Avoid
Do not mix L-ascorbic acid with Cetaphil (pH mismatch).
Do not exceed 10% Transcutol (may sting or destabilize).
Do not add powders directly — pre-dissolve everything.
Conclusion
Yes — it is entirely feasible, reasonable, and scientifically sound to build a multi-active, cost-effective anti-aging cream by:
Dissolving lipophilic actives (pterostilbene, THD-C) in Transcutol
Dissolving water-soluble actives (niacinamide, HA, MAP/SAP) in water
Blending both into Cetaphil as the base emulsion
Executed properly, this DIY formulation can rival or exceed the functional profile of high-end commercial creams — at a small fraction of the cost — while leveraging validated longevity-/dermatology-relevant pathways (antioxidant defense, ECM remodeling, hydration, barrier repair).
If you’d like, I can now produce:
A step-by-step recipe for a “gold-standard” DIY pterostilbene + niacinamide + HA + vitamin C derivative cream
A version optimized specifically for collagen stimulation
A version optimized for pigmentation correction
A version optimized for max penetration + minimal irritation
what additional chemicals, and compounds might make sense to try in a DIY skin cream to maximize skin health and longevity, minimize senescent cells, and wrinkles?
Grok Response:
Best Combined Strategy for Integration
Follow the original’s phased approach to maintain stability:
Enhance Lipophilic Concentrate (in Transcutol/Squalane): Add quercetin, fisetin, bakuchiol, vitamin E, ceramides, and/or astaxanthin alongside pterostilbene and THD ascorbate. Keep total actives <10% of concentrate volume for solubility.
Enhance Hydrophilic Phase (in Distilled Water): Add EGCG and caffeine with niacinamide, MAP/SAP, panthenol, and pre-hydrated HA. Adjust to pH 5.5–6.5.
Blend into Cetaphil: Oil phase first, then water phase. Limit total additives to 10–15% volume. Test small batches for emulsion integrity—stir gently to avoid air bubbles.
This builds on the original’s antioxidant/collagen/hydration profile by adding senolytic (quercetin/fisetin/EGCG) and barrier-support elements, targeting senescence at the cellular level while minimizing wrinkles.
Potential Cost-Effectiveness
Using bulk powders (e.g., from online suppliers), here’s an estimated additive cost per 100g cream (at recommended concentrations; base Cetaphil ~$1–2):
Ingredient
Typical Cost per 100g DIY Cream
Quercetin (0.2%)
$0.05–$0.15
Fisetin (0.2%)
$0.10–$0.30
Bakuchiol (0.5%)
$0.20–$0.50
Vitamin E (1%)
$0.05–$0.10
Ceramides (0.5%)
$0.15–$0.40
EGCG (0.3%)
$0.05–$0.15
Caffeine (0.5%)
$0.02–$0.05
Astaxanthin (0.05%)
$0.10–$0.25
Total Add-On Cost
~$0.72–$1.90 (bringing full cream to $2.22–$3.90)
This keeps it far below commercial equivalents ($50+), while rivaling high-end senolytic-infused creams.
What These Additions Do Well
Minimize Senescent Cells: Quercetin, fisetin, and EGCG target and clear them, reducing SASP-driven aging.
Reduce Wrinkles: Bakuchiol and caffeine stimulate collagen; all provide ECM support.
Maximize Health/Longevity: Vitamin E, ceramides, and astaxanthin enhance barrier, hydration, and oxidative resilience for sustained vitality.
Synergy: No major conflicts; boosts the original’s pathways without overload.