I wish I took photos. These fissures would just not heal, and within 1 day of taking it they have closed up and are healing. I wonder what other effects it is having in the body that I can’t see?
Doctors who perform skin cancer surgeries often recommend nicotinamide — which is a form of Vitamin B3 — to their patients. It’s been shown to protect cells from UV radiation damage.
Now, a new study of nearly 34,000 veterans, finds this over-the-counter supplement is linked to a reduction in non-melanoma skin cancers among people who’ve already had skin cancer. The research was published in JAMA Dermatology.
The biggest reduction was seen among people who began taking the supplement after being diagnosed with their first skin cancer. Researchers found those who took 500 mg of nicotinamide, also known as niacinamide, twice daily, for at least one month, had a 54% reduced risk of developing another skin cancer, compared to patients who did not take the supplement.
AI Summary:
Introduction to Skincare Misconceptions
- The speaker expresses frustration with skincare influencers who spread misinformation, particularly regarding sunscreen and tanning.
- They emphasize the pain of seeing individuals waste money on ineffective products that do not bring any benefits.
- The speaker highlights the overwhelming nature of modern marketing, which leads consumers to purchase unnecessary items.
Understanding Skin Aging
- Aging skin is a natural process influenced by various factors, including cumulative sun exposure, which manifests differently based on skin tone.
- Individuals with paler skin types often show more visible signs of aging, such as wrinkles and coarse texture, due to sun exposure.
- Conversely, people with richly melanated skin may develop age spots and uneven skin tones rather than pronounced wrinkles.
- Lifestyle choices, like smoking, excessive alcohol consumption, poor diet, and stress, also significantly affect skin aging.
- The decline in estrogen during menopause can exacerbate skin aging in women, leading to increased wrinkling, although the effects vary by skin tone.
Effective Anti-Aging Ingredients
- The most critical anti-aging ingredient is sunscreen, which should be used daily to prevent and reverse sun damage.
- Topical retinoids, such as tretinoin and adapalene, are effective in improving collagen production and reducing visible signs of aging.
- Alpha hydroxy acids, including glycolic and lactic acid, help exfoliate the skin and improve hydration, contributing to a more youthful appearance.
- Niacinamide is a widely used antioxidant that enhances skin barrier function, reduces redness, and improves moisture content.
- Vitamin C, specifically ascorbic acid, is beneficial for collagen production and reducing hyperpigmentation but must be stable and correctly formulated to be effective.
- Peptides are popular ingredients that claim to improve collagen production and hydration, but their efficacy is still under study.
- Topical estrogen may improve collagen production in the skin, but its use is controversial and requires more research to assess potential side effects.
Ineffective Anti-Aging Products
- Growth factors are often marketed as effective anti-aging solutions, but there is little clinical evidence to support their efficacy on human skin.
- Exosomes and PDRN are ingredients that lack substantial scientific backing, and their claims should be viewed critically.
- The speaker encourages consumers to avoid overspending on products that do not have proven benefits and to focus on simple, effective skincare routines.
Conclusion and Practical Skincare Routine
- A straightforward skincare routine focusing on cleansing, moisturizing, and using sunscreen can significantly improve skin health.
- Incorporating a retinoid can further enhance the effectiveness of the routine in addressing signs of aging.
- Consistency in applying these products is crucial for achieving long-term results, as changes in the skin take time.
- The speaker concludes by encouraging viewers to adopt healthy lifestyle choices that contribute to overall skin health and to remain informed about effective skincare practices.
That’s a great summary, thanks.
Though I think it misses a couple things I learned from the recent Peter Attia episode:
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Bone and fat loss are major drivers of what makes us look old. Bone loss around the jaw and temples. Fat loss in the cheeks. That’s what gives old people the sagging lower face. None of those retinoids, vitamin C, B3 etc are going to touch that. I’m kinda bummed out after the episode because now I can totally see it in myself and everybody else lol.
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I think we need to have reasonable expectations from topical products. You can definitely clear up the appearance, texture and brightness of the skin, which definitely looks better. You can also do a lot to treat acne and other blemished. You can lessen some degree of age spots and fine lines etc. But deep wrinkles, proper pigmentation, volume loss etc need stronger interventions.
I wonder if fasting regimes have been studied for their effects on skin aging? For example, it seems like doing daily time restricted eating, which promotes more autophagy, should have a positive effect on all tissues in which it occurs (will have to do a PubMed search). I suppose it must have some positive effects as studies in animals show benefits in skin and fur. I also recall a study from any years ago (Susan Erdman PhD at MIT) who did some work indicating positive skin and fur effects on mice sue to consumption of probiotic yogurt, which points to a healthy gut microbiome, or possibly certain bacterial strains, as being beneficial.
Derm-Biome’s compound prevented epidermal thickening, reduced cellular senescence and preserved collagen levels under UV stress.
Here’s a new product I’m currently testing. Apologies if anyone has previously posted it. It’s got some interesting research behind it. It was created by Hans Kierstead whose company Immunis has a really interesting immune secretome drug in phase 2.
Provoque is a skin secretome product. There are some interesting histologocsl reports that were done.
Pls keep us posted about the results!
I don’t really have much of a problem with skin… yet. (And us guys tend to have thicker skin than women do, so it lasts a little longer.) But I was wondering the other day about a few things to improve skin. One that I was wondering about was hyperbaric oxygen. It apparently speeds up skin turnover, and I had read it also increases collagen and elastin production. It’s especially useful for speeding up wound healing:
It heals damaged tissue by helping your body grow new skin, blood vessels and connective tissues.
Also:
In contrast, the collagen type III volume fraction was ~120 % higher in HBOT wounds (1.41+/-0.81 %) than in CONT ones (0.63+/-0.37 %; p=0.046). In addition, the ratio of the volume fraction of both collagens in the wound ((I+III)w) to the volume fraction of both collagens in the adjacent healthy skin ((I+III)h) was ~65 % higher in rats subjected to HBOT (8.9+/-3.07 vs. 5.38+/-1.86 %, HBOT and CONT, respectively; p=0.028). Vessels density (number per 1 mm2) was found to be higher in CONT vs. HBOT (206.5+/-41.8 and 124+/-28.2, respectively, p<0.001). Our study suggests that HBOT promotes collagen III formation and decreases the number of newly formed vessels at the early phases of healing.
So it seems to have a huge effect, in rats at least, given a lot of HBOT over a short period of time (18 days). Perhaps it would have noticeable effects in humans if they were to try less than an hour dose for a small number of days.
Can You Shrink Pores with Skincare? | Chemist Confessions Podcast
Note: In this video them mention:
New favorite study featuring SK-II pitera from our pore care deep dive.
A really creative test design that shows how pore size slightly increases when we wake up in the morning vs after our morning & evening cleanse.
Have you tried SK-II’s Facial Essence? What was your experience?
More details on SK-II and Pitera below (after summary)
Introduction to Pore Care
- The podcast hosts, Victoria and Gloria, introduce the topic of pore care, emphasizing its complexity and the various angles from which it can be approached.
- They mention the different factors influencing pore appearance, including biology, skincare ingredients, and product types.
- The episode is structured into three sections: pore biology, skincare ingredients for pore reduction, and skincare routines.
Understanding Pores
- Pores are defined as openings of the pilo-sebaceous follicle, which can include hair follicles and sebaceous glands.
- The hosts highlight that the perception of pores is often tied to oily skin and acne, but pores can be a concern for all skin types.
- They stress that the concept of pores is poorly defined in medical literature, often measured arbitrarily.
- The hosts clarify that the biological and structural aspects of pores vary widely across individuals due to genetics, gender, and ethnicity.
Factors Influencing Pore Size
- The biological factors affecting pore size include genetics, age, gender, and ethnicity, with studies indicating that men generally have larger pores due to higher sebum production.
- Women may experience increased pore size during the ovulation phase of their menstrual cycle due to hormonal changes.
- A significant study by L’Oreal examined pore size across different ethnicities and found that Brazilians and Indians have a higher density of enlarged pores compared to French and Japanese populations.
- The study revealed that the age factor contributes less to pore size than ethnicity, indicating a stronger correlation with genetic factors.
Skin Conditions and Pore Care
- Skin elasticity and excess sebum production are crucial factors in pore visibility, with excess sebum often linked to acne.
- The severity of acne does not correlate to increased pore size, providing relief to those concerned about the impact of breakouts on pore appearance.
- The hosts discuss the lack of diverse study populations in skincare research and the implications for understanding pore care across different ethnicities.
Skincare Ingredients for Pore Reduction
- Retinoids are highlighted as effective ingredients for pore reduction, with studies showing significant improvements in pore appearance after consistent use.
- Glycolic acid peels have been shown to reduce the appearance of pores by about 30%, with over 70% of subjects reporting improvement.
- Niacinamide is also noted for its potential in reducing pore size, with studies showing a statistically significant decrease in pores with its use.
- The hosts emphasize that while many products claim to minimize pores, their effectiveness can vary greatly depending on individual skin types and conditions.
The Importance of Cleansing
- Cleansing is identified as a fundamental step in pore care, with studies indicating that regular washing can lead to a reduction in pore size.
- The hosts encourage listeners to be mindful of their cleansing routine, emphasizing the importance of thoroughness in removing impurities and excess sebum.
- Even simple water cleansing has shown to contribute to a reduction in pore visibility, reinforcing the value of maintaining a consistent cleansing routine.
Conclusion and Recommendations
- The hosts summarize the key takeaways for effective pore care, including the importance of using targeted ingredients like retinoids, glycolic acid, and niacinamide.
- They stress the significance of cleansing as a daily practice and its role in maintaining skin health and minimizing pore appearance.
- Lastly, the hosts highlight the need for individuals to embrace their skin’s natural texture and not obsess over pore size, promoting a healthy perspective on skincare.
SK-II and Pitera
Here’s the quick, human-only evidence readout on PITERA® (Galactomyces ferment filtrate, GFF) for skin health/appearance—what’s been shown, in whom, and how strong the data are:
What outcomes has PITERA® improved in people?
- Hydration & barrier function (↓ TEWL): In 86 Japanese women measured in 1999 and again in 2010, then treated twice daily for 12 months with three SK-II products containing PITERA®, skin hydration increased back toward baseline and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) fell, correlating with improvements in visible aging parameters. Study was pre–post without a control arm. MDPI
- Wrinkles, spots, roughness: In the same 12-month cohort, objective image analysis showed progressive reductions in wrinkle score, hyperpigmented spots, and skin roughness over 2, 8, and 12 months. Again: no parallel placebo group; all participants used a 3-product PITERA® regimen. MDPI
- Mask-related irritation/instability: In 20 healthy women followed over six weeks (no mask → mask → mask + GFF moisturizer, sequentially), wearing masks increased daily fluctuations in pore size, redness, and TEWL; adding a GFF moisturizer normalized these fluctuations toward baseline. This was a within-subject, sequential design (not randomized to product vs placebo). PubMed
- Post-acne hyperpigmentation (PAH): A randomized, placebo-controlled trial (n=51, Fitzpatrick IV–V) tested a combination serum (GFF + dexpanthenol + Centella asiatica) twice daily for 8 weeks. Versus placebo, the active serum improved lightness (L)* at weeks 4–6 in FST V and reduced melanin index by week 8 in FST IV. Because the formula combined multiple actives, the specific contribution of GFF can’t be isolated.
Here’s what the peer-reviewed clinical papers actually quantify about PITERA®/Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF). I’m only listing effect sizes that are explicitly stated or can be cleanly calculated from the reported numbers; where the papers don’t give numeric magnitudes, I flag that.
1) 12-month skin-aging reversal study (longitudinal, N=37)
- Daily application of a PITERA® regimen for 12 months after an 11-year natural-aging interval produced an estimated “reversal” of 9.23 years on a composite skin-aging score (wrinkles, pigmented spots, roughness) relative to the subject’s own 2010 baseline (model-based estimate from the paper). The study reports significant improvements in each component and increased hydration with correlated decreases in TEWL, but it does not publish percent changes for individual wrinkle/spot/roughness metrics. MDPI+1
2) Mask study (6-week, within-subject; N=20)
Measured four times daily across 3 phases: baseline (no mask), mask only, then mask + PITERA® moisturizer.
What the paper gives numerically (arbitrary units, AU):
A. Change from baseline → mask period (i.e., mask stress effect sizes)
- Intra-day average pore size: +83% (30.33 → 55.44 AU; p=0.015).
- Intra-day Δ fluctuation (highest–lowest per day):
- TEWL: +106% (4.67 → 9.63 AU; p=0.005)
- Pore size: +83% (14.34 → 26.24 AU; p=0.003)
- Redness: +46% (5.41 → 7.88 AU; p=0.026)
B. Effect of PITERA® moisturizer during mask use (treatment phase)
- Figures show the PITERA® moisturizer returned the enlarged pore size (daily average) and the elevated Δ fluctuations (TEWL, pore size, redness) back to baseline levels. The study demonstrates statistical significance for this normalization, but does not print the post-treatment numeric means in tables, so percent reductions vs. the mask phase can’t be precisely computed from the text/tables. MDPI
Bottom line on effect sizes
- Wrinkles / dark spots / roughness (12-month study): Clear, statistically significant improvements over 12 months of PITERA® use with a composite “rejuvenation” magnitude of ~9.2 years. Exact percent changes for each sub-metric (wrinkle depth/count, spot area/contrast, roughness) are not provided in the paper. MDPI
- Barrier & redness stability under stress (mask study): Quantified mask-induced worsening of TEWL fluctuation (+106%), pore size (avg +83%, fluctuation +83%), and redness fluctuation (+46%). PITERA® moisturizer normalized these back to baseline, but post-treatment numeric means aren’t tabulated, so an exact “% improvement vs mask phase” isn’t computable from the printed tables.
Key Human / Clinical / Translational Studies & Trials
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“Significant Reversal of Facial Wrinkle, Pigmented Spot and Roughness by Daily Application of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate-Containing Skin Products”
Longitudinal (11-year interval, then 12 months treatment) in 86 women
2.Link:* PubMed / MDPI
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36769815/ PubMed
https://www.mdpi.com/2077-0383/12/3/1168 MDPI -
“Daily Fluctuation of Facial Pore Area, Roughness and Redness among Young Japanese Women; Beneficial Effects of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate Containing Antioxidative Skin Care Formula”
4-week study (young women) on intra-day fluctuation endpoints
4.Link:* PubMed
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34198790/ PubMed -
“Enhanced Fluctuations in Facial Pore Size, Redness, and TEWL Caused by Mask Usage Are Normalized by the Application of a Moisturizer”
Mask stress + recovery with GFF moisturizer (within-subject)
6.Link:* PubMed
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35456214/ PubMed+2PMC+2 -
“Transcriptomic Analysis of Human Keratinocytes Treated with Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera™)”
In vitro / ex vivo human keratinocyte model to examine gene expression changes
8.Link:* PubMed / PMC
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36012891/ PubMed
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9409768/ PMC -
“Galactomyces ferment filtrate (Potentiates an Anti-Inflammaging System in Keratinocytes)”
Mechanistic / cell biology (oxidative stress, AHR, barrier genes)
10.Link:* PMC / Journal of Clinical Medicine
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9657190/
Company Website:
https://www.sk-ii.com/product/essence/facial-treatment-essence
Ebay: (much less expensive)
That is an interesting study, will need to dive a bit deeper into this compound.
While it may be a localized benefit to the skin, it will need to be systemically effective to benefit the liver, arteries, lungs, tendons, ligaments, cartilage that also depend on elastin to keep us functioning and alive.
So far I’ve found this particular item from the Radiesse study. This brings into question the “quality” of the elastin produced with this method. Natural elastin has a half life of 70 years, this “stimulated” elastin seems to have a much shorter half life.
- Elastin increases are time-dependent, peaking at several months post-injection, but may persist for up to 9 months or longer before returning to baseline.
I have been using Radiesse for years. The results are fantastic. It lasts 18 months for me.
From what I’ve read and you can correct me if I’m wrong, it is a localized treatment. Either as a filler or a more diverse coverage with different dilutions depending on how deep or shallow the injection.
While it certainly appears to be effective for this purpose it’s not going to extend life span as it is not systemic and provides no benefit to the organs that keep you alive.
But I’m going to see if I can get my hands on some of the nano version that is used by the Derms as I would not mind at least looking younger LoL!
It is localized but I’m sure there can be ways of delivering it to inner parts of the body— not currently available but feasible in principle. Still leaves organs out of the equation.
It works amazingly well. Found me cheap Chinese sources of Radiesse and with dermoelectroporation, it’s my favorite skincare modality by far.
How is that going for you? Any new before and after pics?
Can you share the details on how you are doing this, perhaps with photos? How deep does this go, and can you control the depth? How do you know it’s “working”? Any side effects? Any pain?
How’s what going? My skincare experiments? I’ve been very busy so keeping it minimalistic. The most effective treatments for me are 1) ultraformer mpt every 4 months and that’s effective to me due to my particular face shape, needing to prevent jowls and keep the jawline snatched 2) Radiesse diluted 1:1 or 1:2 with cytocare or NCFT 135 ha. I have lots of devices that can help with various things but I end up only doing these two. The exception is laser to plump the lips but I’ve been too busy for that lately. They’re looking good enough without the extra help.
I can but probably not till next time I actually do it — hopefully next week. Zero pain, only a weird feeling. But know it’s working on the spot because the product disappears, gets absorbed — maybe not 100% but I’d say around 80%. You cannot control the depth, and that’s a shortcoming but in a sense also a superpower, unless there’s counter-indications for the product going deep, which for Radiesse there aren’t. I actually think this mode of delivery minimizes the risk of nodule formation that you incur with injection because it spreads the product so very thin.
And then the way you know it’s working is by looking in the mirror. It’s unmistakable, but takes a couple of weeks to kick in.
Is this another device you’ve purchased (if so, which one?) or is it a professional service you get?
For the “Radiesse and with dermoelectroporation” how much do you use in your formulation, and for what areas (square inches?). And Medaura’s related post: Dermoelectroporation for Aging Skin Health