The photobiomodulation study that got my attention was a randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled, split-face clinical trial from 2007.
It was the split-face design that I found compelling. They treated the right side of each participant’s face, but covered the left side so that it would remain untreated. This setup allowed for a within-subject comparison, where the treated and untreated sides could be directly compared for changes. The study also included a control group that received a sham light treatment.
Here’s what they found:
Among 76 participants, twice-weekly sessions of 633 nm red light therapy (totaling either 126 J/cm2or 44 J/cm2 depending on method of measurement) for four weeks reduced wrinkle severity (measured through average roughness) by 26% and melanin levels (measured through the Mexameter spectrometer) by 694%, while increasing gross elasticity by 14% (Lee et al. 2007). In all cases, no significant differences were seen on the within-patient covered side of the face or in the sham light control group.
The 19 participants who underwent biopsies displayed 1) an increase in the number of elastic fibers (Verhoeff-van Gieson stain; validated as normal with Alcian blue staining), 2) highly activated fibroblasts surrounded by thicker and more numerous collagen and elastic fibers (transmission electron microscopy), and 3) a 2.53-fold increase in Cx43 mRNA. For context, Cx43 is a gap junction protein that facilitates communication between cells.
There are plenty of other studies, but that one convinced me to purchase a smaller panel to use on my face. It’s a low-risk intervention with pretty good evidence—and it feels nice, too.
I would, however, mildly caution against using 830 nm near-infrared light (as opposed to ~633 nm red light) close to your hair. There’s a small amount of evidence that it can inhibit enzymes related to melanin production, which means 830 nm NIR could exacerbate graying hair.
In primary cultured human melanocytes and a 3D-mixed cell culture system, near-infrared (NIR) light at 830 nm (5, 10 and 20 J/cm2) reduced tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2, and MITF—inhibiting melanin synthesis in vitro and ex vivo in a dose-dependent manner (Kim et al. 2012). LED irradiation at 850 nm has a similar, but attenuated effect on melanin production.
Seriously, though, this is just one study. So I weight it lightly.