How to Reverse Skin Aging (2025)

RapAdmin · October 8, 2025, 5:26am

Can You Shrink Pores with Skincare? | Chemist Confessions Podcast

Note: In this video them mention:

New favorite study featuring SK-II pitera from our pore care deep dive.
A really creative test design that shows how pore size slightly increases when we wake up in the morning vs after our morning & evening cleanse.
Have you tried SK-II’s Facial Essence? What was your experience?

See here: Chemist Confessions on Instagram: "👩‍🔬👩‍🔬 New favorite study featuring SK-II pitera from our pore care deep dive. 🧪 A really creative test design that shows how pore size slightly increases when we wake up in the morning vs after our morning & evening cleanse. 🌟 Have you tried SK-II’s Facial Essence? What was your experience? #porecare #SKII #pitera"

More details on SK-II and Pitera below (after summary)

Introduction to Pore Care

The podcast hosts, Victoria and Gloria, introduce the topic of pore care, emphasizing its complexity and the various angles from which it can be approached.
They mention the different factors influencing pore appearance, including biology, skincare ingredients, and product types.
The episode is structured into three sections: pore biology, skincare ingredients for pore reduction, and skincare routines.

Understanding Pores

Pores are defined as openings of the pilo-sebaceous follicle, which can include hair follicles and sebaceous glands.
The hosts highlight that the perception of pores is often tied to oily skin and acne, but pores can be a concern for all skin types.
They stress that the concept of pores is poorly defined in medical literature, often measured arbitrarily.
The hosts clarify that the biological and structural aspects of pores vary widely across individuals due to genetics, gender, and ethnicity.

Factors Influencing Pore Size

The biological factors affecting pore size include genetics, age, gender, and ethnicity, with studies indicating that men generally have larger pores due to higher sebum production.
Women may experience increased pore size during the ovulation phase of their menstrual cycle due to hormonal changes.
A significant study by L’Oreal examined pore size across different ethnicities and found that Brazilians and Indians have a higher density of enlarged pores compared to French and Japanese populations.
The study revealed that the age factor contributes less to pore size than ethnicity, indicating a stronger correlation with genetic factors.

Skin Conditions and Pore Care

Skin elasticity and excess sebum production are crucial factors in pore visibility, with excess sebum often linked to acne.
The severity of acne does not correlate to increased pore size, providing relief to those concerned about the impact of breakouts on pore appearance.
The hosts discuss the lack of diverse study populations in skincare research and the implications for understanding pore care across different ethnicities.

Skincare Ingredients for Pore Reduction

Retinoids are highlighted as effective ingredients for pore reduction, with studies showing significant improvements in pore appearance after consistent use.
Glycolic acid peels have been shown to reduce the appearance of pores by about 30%, with over 70% of subjects reporting improvement.
Niacinamide is also noted for its potential in reducing pore size, with studies showing a statistically significant decrease in pores with its use.
The hosts emphasize that while many products claim to minimize pores, their effectiveness can vary greatly depending on individual skin types and conditions.

The Importance of Cleansing

Cleansing is identified as a fundamental step in pore care, with studies indicating that regular washing can lead to a reduction in pore size.
The hosts encourage listeners to be mindful of their cleansing routine, emphasizing the importance of thoroughness in removing impurities and excess sebum.
Even simple water cleansing has shown to contribute to a reduction in pore visibility, reinforcing the value of maintaining a consistent cleansing routine.

Conclusion and Recommendations

The hosts summarize the key takeaways for effective pore care, including the importance of using targeted ingredients like retinoids, glycolic acid, and niacinamide.
They stress the significance of cleansing as a daily practice and its role in maintaining skin health and minimizing pore appearance.
Lastly, the hosts highlight the need for individuals to embrace their skin’s natural texture and not obsess over pore size, promoting a healthy perspective on skincare.

SK-II and Pitera

Here’s the quick, human-only evidence readout on PITERA® (Galactomyces ferment filtrate, GFF) for skin health/appearance—what’s been shown, in whom, and how strong the data are:

What outcomes has PITERA® improved in people?

Hydration & barrier function (↓ TEWL): In 86 Japanese women measured in 1999 and again in 2010, then treated twice daily for 12 months with three SK-II products containing PITERA®, skin hydration increased back toward baseline and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) fell, correlating with improvements in visible aging parameters. Study was pre–post without a control arm. MDPI
Wrinkles, spots, roughness: In the same 12-month cohort, objective image analysis showed progressive reductions in wrinkle score, hyperpigmented spots, and skin roughness over 2, 8, and 12 months. Again: no parallel placebo group; all participants used a 3-product PITERA® regimen. MDPI
Mask-related irritation/instability: In 20 healthy women followed over six weeks (no mask → mask → mask + GFF moisturizer, sequentially), wearing masks increased daily fluctuations in pore size, redness, and TEWL; adding a GFF moisturizer normalized these fluctuations toward baseline. This was a within-subject, sequential design (not randomized to product vs placebo). PubMed
Post-acne hyperpigmentation (PAH): A randomized, placebo-controlled trial (n=51, Fitzpatrick IV–V) tested a combination serum (GFF + dexpanthenol + Centella asiatica) twice daily for 8 weeks. Versus placebo, the active serum improved lightness (L)* at weeks 4–6 in FST V and reduced melanin index by week 8 in FST IV. Because the formula combined multiple actives, the specific contribution of GFF can’t be isolated.

Here’s what the peer-reviewed clinical papers actually quantify about PITERA®/Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF). I’m only listing effect sizes that are explicitly stated or can be cleanly calculated from the reported numbers; where the papers don’t give numeric magnitudes, I flag that.

1) 12-month skin-aging reversal study (longitudinal, N=37)

Daily application of a PITERA® regimen for 12 months after an 11-year natural-aging interval produced an estimated “reversal” of 9.23 years on a composite skin-aging score (wrinkles, pigmented spots, roughness) relative to the subject’s own 2010 baseline (model-based estimate from the paper). The study reports significant improvements in each component and increased hydration with correlated decreases in TEWL, but it does not publish percent changes for individual wrinkle/spot/roughness metrics. MDPI+1

2) Mask study (6-week, within-subject; N=20)

Measured four times daily across 3 phases: baseline (no mask), mask only, then mask + PITERA® moisturizer.

What the paper gives numerically (arbitrary units, AU):

A. Change from baseline → mask period (i.e., mask stress effect sizes)

Intra-day average pore size: +83% (30.33 → 55.44 AU; p=0.015).
Intra-day Δ fluctuation (highest–lowest per day):
- TEWL: +106% (4.67 → 9.63 AU; p=0.005)
- Pore size: +83% (14.34 → 26.24 AU; p=0.003)
- Redness: +46% (5.41 → 7.88 AU; p=0.026)

B. Effect of PITERA® moisturizer during mask use (treatment phase)

Figures show the PITERA® moisturizer returned the enlarged pore size (daily average) and the elevated Δ fluctuations (TEWL, pore size, redness) back to baseline levels. The study demonstrates statistical significance for this normalization, but does not print the post-treatment numeric means in tables, so percent reductions vs. the mask phase can’t be precisely computed from the text/tables. MDPI

Bottom line on effect sizes

Wrinkles / dark spots / roughness (12-month study): Clear, statistically significant improvements over 12 months of PITERA® use with a composite “rejuvenation” magnitude of ~9.2 years. Exact percent changes for each sub-metric (wrinkle depth/count, spot area/contrast, roughness) are not provided in the paper. MDPI
Barrier & redness stability under stress (mask study): Quantified mask-induced worsening of TEWL fluctuation (+106%), pore size (avg +83%, fluctuation +83%), and redness fluctuation (+46%). PITERA® moisturizer normalized these back to baseline, but post-treatment numeric means aren’t tabulated, so an exact “% improvement vs mask phase” isn’t computable from the printed tables.

Key Human / Clinical / Translational Studies & Trials

“Significant Reversal of Facial Wrinkle, Pigmented Spot and Roughness by Daily Application of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate-Containing Skin Products”
Longitudinal (11-year interval, then 12 months treatment) in 86 women
2.Link:* PubMed / MDPI
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36769815/ PubMed
https://www.mdpi.com/2077-0383/12/3/1168 MDPI
“Daily Fluctuation of Facial Pore Area, Roughness and Redness among Young Japanese Women; Beneficial Effects of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate Containing Antioxidative Skin Care Formula”
4-week study (young women) on intra-day fluctuation endpoints
4.Link:* PubMed
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34198790/ PubMed
“Enhanced Fluctuations in Facial Pore Size, Redness, and TEWL Caused by Mask Usage Are Normalized by the Application of a Moisturizer”
Mask stress + recovery with GFF moisturizer (within-subject)
6.Link:* PubMed
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35456214/ PubMed+2PMC+2
“Transcriptomic Analysis of Human Keratinocytes Treated with Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera™)”
In vitro / ex vivo human keratinocyte model to examine gene expression changes
8.Link:* PubMed / PMC
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36012891/ PubMed
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9409768/ PMC
“Galactomyces ferment filtrate (Potentiates an Anti-Inflammaging System in Keratinocytes)”
Mechanistic / cell biology (oxidative stress, AHR, barrier genes)
10.Link:* PMC / Journal of Clinical Medicine
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9657190/

Company Website:

https://www.sk-ii.com/product/essence/facial-treatment-essence

Ebay: (much less expensive)

Steve_Combi · October 8, 2025, 2:52pm

That is an interesting study, will need to dive a bit deeper into this compound.

While it may be a localized benefit to the skin, it will need to be systemically effective to benefit the liver, arteries, lungs, tendons, ligaments, cartilage that also depend on elastin to keep us functioning and alive.

So far I’ve found this particular item from the Radiesse study. This brings into question the “quality” of the elastin produced with this method. Natural elastin has a half life of 70 years, this “stimulated” elastin seems to have a much shorter half life.

Elastin increases are time-dependent, peaking at several months post-injection, but may persist for up to 9 months or longer before returning to baseline.

LaraPo · October 8, 2025, 9:29pm

I have been using Radiesse for years. The results are fantastic. It lasts 18 months for me.

Steve_Combi · October 8, 2025, 11:24pm

From what I’ve read and you can correct me if I’m wrong, it is a localized treatment. Either as a filler or a more diverse coverage with different dilutions depending on how deep or shallow the injection.

While it certainly appears to be effective for this purpose it’s not going to extend life span as it is not systemic and provides no benefit to the organs that keep you alive.

But I’m going to see if I can get my hands on some of the nano version that is used by the Derms as I would not mind at least looking younger LoL!

medaura · October 8, 2025, 11:37pm

It is localized but I’m sure there can be ways of delivering it to inner parts of the body— not currently available but feasible in principle. Still leaves organs out of the equation.

It works amazingly well. Found me cheap Chinese sources of Radiesse and with dermoelectroporation, it’s my favorite skincare modality by far.

AustraliaLongevity · October 8, 2025, 11:52pm

How is that going for you? Any new before and after pics?

RapAdmin · October 9, 2025, 12:50am

Can you share the details on how you are doing this, perhaps with photos? How deep does this go, and can you control the depth? How do you know it’s “working”? Any side effects? Any pain?

medaura · October 9, 2025, 12:56am

How’s what going? My skincare experiments? I’ve been very busy so keeping it minimalistic. The most effective treatments for me are 1) ultraformer mpt every 4 months and that’s effective to me due to my particular face shape, needing to prevent jowls and keep the jawline snatched 2) Radiesse diluted 1:1 or 1:2 with cytocare or NCFT 135 ha. I have lots of devices that can help with various things but I end up only doing these two. The exception is laser to plump the lips but I’ve been too busy for that lately. They’re looking good enough without the extra help.

medaura · October 9, 2025, 1:06am

I can but probably not till next time I actually do it — hopefully next week. Zero pain, only a weird feeling. But know it’s working on the spot because the product disappears, gets absorbed — maybe not 100% but I’d say around 80%. You cannot control the depth, and that’s a shortcoming but in a sense also a superpower, unless there’s counter-indications for the product going deep, which for Radiesse there aren’t. I actually think this mode of delivery minimizes the risk of nodule formation that you incur with injection because it spreads the product so very thin.

And then the way you know it’s working is by looking in the mirror. It’s unmistakable, but takes a couple of weeks to kick in.

RapAdmin · October 9, 2025, 1:17am

Is this another device you’ve purchased (if so, which one?) or is it a professional service you get?

For the “Radiesse and with dermoelectroporation” how much do you use in your formulation, and for what areas (square inches?). And Medaura’s related post: Dermoelectroporation for Aging Skin Health

RapAdmin · October 9, 2025, 1:45am

Please document the steps you take from start to finish so others here can replicate. Tools you use during the process of mixing / diluting, how much you use in ML, for what areas, etc. Sort of like people did with the DIY rapamycin Skin Cream: DIY Rapamycin skin cream

RapAdmin · October 9, 2025, 1:51am

Can you share sources?

medaura · October 9, 2025, 1:52am

I don’t have the official device — it’s too bulky. But I have essentially the same technology. The important point is to have line vs mere point delivery of energy, otherwise the treatment would take too long and not be that effective. Also important to use the right depths for the right areas. On SCRIBID I found the manual that comes with the official product, specifying all the settings for every facial area, leaving nothing to guess work. I also watched a few webinars on YT by the branded manufacturer so I am very prepared and confident when I work on myself, though ot course it would be much easier to do it to someone else.

Someone else might gravitate towards a different device based on his needs but this happens to be my personal holy grail because I can tell that as I age I’m prone to heaviness in the lower face and it’s perfect for that, to contour it. If you have eye wrinkles or whatnot, something else might work even better. For me this takes care of all my needs.

RapAdmin · October 9, 2025, 1:53am

Can you share the device you got and source… I’m assuming another Alibaba purchase like the dermoelectroporation device…

medaura · October 9, 2025, 1:57am

There’s this dermatologist on Instagram who showed me how it’s done. All you need is a syringe and a luer lock to dilute it. I use 1.5 cc and aim for every 4 weeks but not indefinitely. Pretty sure after a few treatments spaced apart like that you need to slow down, as I have. Might end up too bulky.

Here he is:

HDR NECK TREATMENT USING DEP (DermoElectroPoration®️)

I’ve always wanted HDR (Hyperdilute Radiesse) treatment of my neck to increase Collagen Type 1 & 3 along with elastin to tighten my loose skin. I can’t really do it myself using a cannula. The DEP (DermoElectroPoration®️) System is my solution.

DEP is the new non-invasive, stand alone powered drug-delivery system.
DermoElectroPoration®️ increases the skin’s permeability by using the skin’s water based channels opened by a particular controlled current delivered to the patient, therefore allowing the substances to be absorbed by the hypodermis and muscle membranes.

DermoElectroPoration®️ promotes the transdermal delivery of both micro- and macro molecules (up to 2 million Dalton weight) safely into the body without the use of needles. This is perfect for skin boosters and PRP hair restoration, which typically require upwards of 100 injections. Another popular indication is the delivery of Hyperdilute Radiesse (HDR) for skin biostimulation as seen here.

Treatment results will come to full bloom in 3-4 months. I’ll keep you posted regarding my progress.

And here’s how you dilute it. Stupid simple:

You can even use saline to dilute it but I use Cytocare or NCFT 135 HA as this derm has had better results from it that way. And it stands to reason.

medaura · October 9, 2025, 2:45am

My source for all things skincare:

RapAdmin · October 9, 2025, 2:51am

What is the name of your device that you purchased for this?

LaraPo · October 9, 2025, 2:53am

Radiesse is a proprietary product made by Merz Aesthetics, and authentic versions are typically not manufactured in China. What you’ll find on Chinese platforms are Radiesse-style fillers—often calcium-based or poly-L-lactic acid alternatives—marketed for similar aesthetic uses. Quality, sterility, and safety standards may vary widely.

About diluting Radiesse - it’s simple only in videos. If done incorrectly the mixture will start foaming (and has to be discarted). Also it’s easy to make a mistake with injection depth. In other words, it’s not for amateurs for sure. It’s a difficult filler to work with.

RapAdmin · October 9, 2025, 2:55am

I am discussing the DermoElectroPoration here - yes, self injecting is something I would be extremely leery about.

RapAdmin · October 9, 2025, 4:03am

Ah - that is true for all of Annis Dang’s products… they are all knock-offs.

While for some things the knock-offs might be fine, it’s really hard to tell, or discern “good” from “less good” or “bad” products. Here is a CGPT5 summary of this issue:

AI Summary of Issues with Knockoffs:

This is an excellent, nuanced question — and it touches on pharmaceutical manufacturing quality, biomaterial chemistry, and regulatory oversight.
Let’s unpack it carefully.

1. What Radiesse (by Merz Pharma) Actually Is

Radiesse is a class III medical device made by Merz Aesthetics (Merz Pharma, Germany).
It is composed of:

30% calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) microspheres — smooth, spherical particles ~25–45 μm in diameter
70% aqueous carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) gel carrier

It is non-animal, biocompatible, and biodegradable — the CaHA microspheres provide scaffolding for fibroblast-mediated neocollagenesis, while the gel provides temporary volume.

The product has:

Stringent particle size control (narrow distribution)
Surface charge optimization
Low endotoxin and impurity load
Sterility assurance via validated gamma sterilization
Extensive ISO 13485 / EU-MDR / FDA 510(k) quality validation

So although the chemical formula (Ca₁₀(PO₄)₆(OH)₂) looks simple, how it is processed and stabilized in the CMC matrix is highly engineered.

2. Is CaHA “Easy to Replicate”?

Chemically — yes.
Biologically and medically — not remotely.

Basic synthesis

Producing CaHA powder (for lab ceramics or dental bone grafts) is straightforward: mix calcium and phosphate salts under controlled pH, precipitate, dry, and sinter. Many labs in China, India, or Europe can do this cheaply.

But for dermal filler use

You must precisely control:

Particle size (25–45 μm) and distribution width
Surface morphology (smooth, non-porous)
Zeta potential (electrostatic charge affects aggregation and inflammation)
Purity / residual salts
Endotoxin levels (<0.5 EU/mL)
Sterility and pyrogenicity
Uniform suspension in the CMC gel carrier

These factors require pharmaceutical-grade synthesis, ultrafiltration, cleanroom processing, validated sterilization, and multi-lot biocompatibility testing (ISO 10993).

Those quality controls are the difficult — and expensive — parts. The chemical recipe is public; the reproducible, safe biomaterial is not.

3. Likely Differences with “Knockoffs” or Unapproved Imports

Parameter	Merz Radiesse	Typical Unregulated Copy (China / gray market)	Clinical Implication
Particle size control	Tight (25–45 μm)	Broad (5–80 μm)	Irregular particles → uneven injection, lumping, granulomas
Surface finish	Smooth, uniform	Often rough / porous	Higher macrophage activation, nodules
Purity / endotoxin	Pharmaceutical-grade, batch tested	Often unknown	Inflammatory reactions, sterile abscesses
CMC carrier stability	Optimized viscosity, resorption profile	May separate or clump	Uneven results, injection resistance
Sterility validation	Gamma sterilization, ISO 11137	Variable / unverified	Infection risk
Regulatory oversight	CE mark, FDA 510(k), post-market surveillance	None / fake certificates	No recourse for adverse events
Shelf stability	≥2 years validated	Often untested	Loss of performance, microbial growth

So while the CaHA chemical formula is simple, replicating the biomaterial quality and sterility of Merz’s product is complex and capital-intensive.

4. Safety and Clinical Consequences of Using Knockoffs

Real-world reports (from dermatology and plastic surgery societies, esp. in Asia and South America) have documented:

Nodules / granulomas
Inflammatory reactions
Skin necrosis from vessel embolization
Inconsistent degradation
Poor or short-lived results

This happens because the knockoff products may:

Have non-uniform microsphere sizes, which can clog microvessels
Contain residual ionic contaminants
Use improper gel carriers
Or be non-sterile (contaminated during manufacturing or repackaging)

Even if some counterfeit CaHA products appear similar visually, their in vivo rheology, tissue response, and resorption can differ drastically.

5. China’s Role in CaHA Production

China has a strong biomaterials industry (for bone grafts, dental ceramics, etc.), so technical capability exists.
However:

Many domestic CaHA-based “fillers” are approved only under local NMPA (formerly CFDA), not FDA/EMA.
Some are legitimate Chinese brands (e.g., Biohyalux’s CaHA-based fillers) with real local clinical data.
But many gray-market “Radiesse-like” products (sold on non-medical websites) are counterfeit, relabeled, or illegally exported.

Even if the manufacturer can technically make CaHA microspheres, replicating the precise Radiesse microstructure and carrier performance requires proprietary process controls and expensive equipment.

6. Expert Summary

Chemically easy, biologically hard, clinically dangerous if unregulated.

The CaHA molecule itself is not unique, but the particle engineering, purification, and sterile suspension technology in Merz’s product are difficult to duplicate safely.
Counterfeit or low-cost CaHA fillers may cause serious inflammatory or vascular complications.
Authentic Radiesse remains the benchmark CaHA filler, backed by >200 clinical publications and 15+ years of safety data.

Bottom Line

Radiesse (Merz) is a precision-engineered biomaterial, not just “calcium powder in gel.”
While CaHA synthesis is simple, achieving the same purity, uniformity, and tissue biocompatibility requires Merz-level GMP infrastructure.
“Knockoffs” are therefore high risk, even if they appear chemically identical.
For any CaHA-based filler, regulatory approval + traceable supply chain are non-negotiable markers of safety.